Posts with category: camping

Dispatch from the Galapagos: The summer I gave up meat



Rachel Atkinson hops like a Darwin finch from one volcanic outcropping to the next, then plunges into ankle-deep mud. Squishing as she walks, the botanist with the Charles Darwin Research Station homes in on the ailing invaders: blackberry, passion fruit, and quinine bushes clustered near Santa Cruz Island's last shrubby stands of Scalesia trees. Atkinson smiles in approval. One more blast of herbicide ought to prevent the aliens from regrowing and give the Scalesia a shot at survival after all.

We were on the front-line of an epic war being waged on all sorts of invasive species in the Galápagos Islands. Surprisingly, the culprit seems to be global warming, which is usually associated with polar bears and other sorts of cold things-not an archipelago situated one degree south of the equator.

It all started in the late 1980s, when the periodic El Niños became more frequent and severe. Of course, we do have to give some credit to the pirates and whalers who began visiting the Galápagos in the 1700s and leaving behind goats, pigs, and other animals as a living larder for future visits. That couldn't have helped.

Greek Island of Lesbos sues over term 'Lesbian'

Is this a PR strategy to get more tourists to visit Lesbos Island or do they really care?

Three islanders from Lesbos - Greek island and home of the ancient poet Sappho, who praised love between women - have taken a gay rights group to court for using the word lesbian in its name, Newsweek reports. One of the plaintiffs said that the name of the association, Homosexual and Lesbian Community of Greece, "insults the identity" of the people of Lesbos, who are also known as Lesbians.

The three plaintiffs are seeking to have the group barred from using "lesbian" in its name.

Lesbos should just use the term lesbian to advertise the island: "Lesbos: where Lesbians love men." Tell me that wouldn't work.

Dispatch from Sumatra's nastiest swamp (part 2 of 2)


This is the second post of a 2-part series. Read the first part here.

The swamp here could be the stuff of nightmares. Because this happens to be the rainy season, which lasts from October to March, the trails are meant to be waded, not walked. Yet I am utterly stuck, knee-deep in pungent red mud with stagnant water up to my waist. Ellen Meulman, a PhD student from the University of Zurich, doubles back to pull me out of the quagmire. It takes a few hard yanks. "Be careful," she says. "You can disappear in these waters." Thoughts of leeches and king cobras vanish, replaced by a more immediate fear.

We've been slogging and hacking through the jungle for nearly three hours, on our way to rendezvous with today's observation team. The field staff hustles day in and out to arrive at the nest-site before dawn and do not return until after dark. In between, they track the individual behaviors of the orangutan in excruciating detail: Is the subject playing with a neighbor? Eating, and if so, what? Vocalizing? Using a tool?

The orangutans here already know some remarkable tricks. They've learned how to fashion a seed-extraction stick to crack open the prickly shell of the Neesia fruit. The theory goes that this rather complicated skill developed from simpler abilities to use tools to dig for honey, fish for termites, and scoop for water. Yet primatologists know little more than that these smarter-than-we-thought apes possess culture; the pressing question now is to figure out how it's acquired and transferred.

Cash and Treasures: Digging for Benitoite

Cash and Treasures, as mentioned in a previous post, is a Travel Channel show that features kid friendly places. Host Kirsten Gum, an engaging sort, heads to where you can dig up treasure with or without kids.

Episode: Digging for Benitoite

What is it? Benitoite is an electric blue gem considered rare.

Location: California State Gem Mine. Between Hollister and Coalinga, California. The mine, first opened in 1907, has been active at various times, depending on who owned it and world events. It was closed during World War I, for example. It opened to the public in 2005.

Digging details: If you're going to find benitoite, the best time to find it seems to be at night using a black-light headlamp. "Oh, my goodness. It looks like a full constellation on the ground," said Gum when she switched on her light to look around.

Read all of outdoor magazine Wend online and for free

If you are an outdoor aficionado, you may already be familiar with Wend. The outdoor magazine based out of Portland, Oregon fills its pages with stories from around the globe that peak the interest of not only outdoor enthusiasts, but anyone with a wanderlust. The latest issue covers a trip through Iceland, volunteering in Indonesia, trekking Afghanistan and surfing the Great Lakes; that's what I call good reading material.

Being the eco-friendly souls that they are, the Wend crew finally put the magazine online, making all of the articles accessible via your computer. You can still buy the print version, but if you are out traveling -- or just want to save on paper consumption -- the new online version is just as satisfying. And it's free.

Check out the virtual version of the latest issue here. And if you are feeling truly inspired, shoot them an email and pitch a story.

How to hike the Inca trail

Every time I took a step, my wet sneakers made the same sound as when I'm slurping spaghetti. I just crossed Dead Woman's Pass (which won't seem as derogatory once you hear the full backstory) at 13,700 feet and all I wanted was to sit down, get out of my soaking clothes, and take a hot shower. But I couldn't, because I was on a four day trek on the Inca trail to the lost city of Machu Picchu.

Besides the rain (the rainy season is December to February), you'll have to deal with the cold (Under Armour helps), the sun (bring lots of sunscreen, trust me), the snow (one porter died a couple years ago at Dead Woman's Pass), the endless steps (both up and down), the wake-up times (4 am on the last day to get to Machu Picchu by sun-rise), and the traffic (thousands of tourists crowd the trail during the popular season, June to August).

Oh, and there's also the $300 or so you'll spend on mandatory porters and a guide.

Even with these hassles and expenses, I guarantee you won't regret hiking the Inca trail. In fact, it's a classic favorite on any traveler's life-list. These days, though, many guides like Lonely Planet will try to convince you to take an alternative hike, citing the crowds on the trail and a rushed itinerary.

But it's not just any old trail. Taking an alternative route will mean missing out on seeing the 10+ amazing ruins scattered throughout the 33-kilometer trail. And you can avoid most of the crowds by going outside of June to August, like I did. If you can afford it, hiring a private tour will help you feel less claustrophobic, since you can just zip right past other groups-or slow down and enjoy the ruins. Having said that, the standard 3-night / 4-day itinerary really gives you plenty of time to soak it all in.

Hanta Virus in American Southwest

The Hanta Virus is a little known problem of those who live and travel in the American Southwest. Unfortunately, Hanta has a reputation for killing people and should be taken seriously. A recent article discusses a case from February, 2008. Knowledge of transmission and prevention are needed to prevent a great "Indiana Jones" style adventure, visiting ghost towns, from making you very sick.

Hanta Virus first got major media attention with an outbreak in New Mexico in the early 1990's. The "Four Corners" area (Arizona, New Mexico, Utah and Colorado) was the epicenter of infectious disease and epidemiological research. This outbreak allowed researchers to determine that the disease is spread through contact with infected rodent urine and feces. Spread of Hanta between humans, directly, is not common and believed impossible.

Rodents are ubiquitous in the American Southwest and they are the primary vector for disease transmission. People especially vulnerable to this are hikers and backpackers and those who live in more rural areas. Exploration of ghost towns is a popular vacation activity and caution should be taken when doing this. These ghost towns attract the rodents and visitors to these buildings are putting themselves at potential risk through contact with animal urine and feces. However, of more than 100 reported cases, only 2 have come from hikers. The rest are from people cleaning their garages, vacation homes and other areas that include rodents excreta. Bleach solution and rubber gloves are proper protection measures, along with adequate ventilation while cleaning vacation homes or garages.

Hanta Virus symptoms include a flu-like illness with muscle aches and pains, headaches, nausea and vomiting and fatigue being common. There is no cure for Hanta Virus and care is supportive (treating the symptoms only). Worse is the Hanta Pulmonary form that classically appears after the person appears to have recovered from the initial infection. The person;s lungs fill with fluid and progression can be quite rapid, in hours in fact.

There have been 76 cases in New Mexico, since 1993, with 31 deaths.

A review of 'Into the Wild'

I just watched Into the Wild this weekend, somewhat of an unfortunate choice only in the sense that it's been snowing here in Pittsburgh, and well, the movie is half set in Alaska. But all was not lost, because there were also scenes from South Dakota, California, the Grand Canyon, and even a stretch in Mexico.

And that diversity and breadth of storytelling was a big part of why I thoroughly enjoyed the film.

This movie will inspire the traveler in you to follow Thoreau (one of Chris McCandless's favorite authors) abandon the rat race for a piece of your own wilderness and adventure. Chris, by the way, is the real-life young Emory grad who the movie is based upon; he donates his life savings of $24,000 to Oxfam and becomes a full-time tramp. He eventually finds his way to Alaska, his dream, where he sets into the pure wilderness with nothing more than a gun and some reading material.

I had just a few qualms about the movie. First, the editing could be a bit better (which is quite a controversial stance, mind you, considering it was nominated for an Oscar for this). I just feel it could have been told in 2 hours instead of 2.5. This leads into my next quip, that some of the scenes were quite cliche, for instance the one of him surrounded by Alaskan mountains, with his hands above him, celebrating his freedom.

But it's worth a watch. I'm looking forward to Catherine's take, since she's from that neck of the woods.

Should pilots have to compete for your business?

You've always dreamt of flying out to a remote lodge in the middle of nowhere in Alaska, but you're a bit concerned about the pilots. Are they really good enough to get you into that 1000-foot strip? Wouldn't it be nice to know just how these aviators rank?

Well, the May Day Fly-In and Airshow in Valdez, Alaska has a bush pilot competition that ranks pilots and their planes in their ability to takeoff and land in the shortest possible distances. These airplanes are highly modified to handle the tightest gravel bars Alaska has to offer. And their pilots know how to get the most out of them.

If you're looking for some experienced pilots to take you to a great lodge, you can't go too wrong with the Claus family. Dad, Paul, accomplished the shortest takeoff at 19 feet, and his 18-year old son Jay scored a 39-foot takeoff, which was good for 4th place in his class. The Claus family own and operate the Ultima Thule Lodge.

Here's 18 year old Jay's 39 foot takeoff:


I think I'm ready to go visit the Claus family and see just WHERE they're taking this airplane!


Join Kent at Cockpit Chronicles which takes you along on each of his trips as a co-pilot on the Boeing 757 and 767 out of Boston.

No Wrong Turns: RV Adventures

The USA is all about RVs. And not small camper vans, I'm talking about massive, gleaming houses on wheels. I know Canadians RV as well, but it seems to me that the US has a definite love affair with recreational vehicles. I've never seen this many in my life!

The other night, after about 7 hours of driving the California coast, we pulled into the Westport Beach RV and Campground. The guy was friendly enough even though he grumbled at us that he was closed. I pondered letting him know that he had his 'open' sign on but, decided that being smart might not win him over. Instead I made friends with his cat, aptly named "Miss Kitty," and he let us camp on the beach. On the short drive down to the beach we passed about 25 RVs (according to the locals this is the low season) and set up our tiny two-person tent.


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